The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum Review

The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum
4.9
/ 10
Moisturizing
9.8 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants
Review

Does The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 4.9 out of 10.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 4.9 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a very high humectancy of 9.8 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Ethoxydiglycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Butylene Glycol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈20.0%) and Ferulic Acid (est. ≈2.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically exclude the possibility that 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid may reduce wrinkles, its efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were accessible to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of The Derma Co 20% Vitamin C Face Serum to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution

Cons: 

  • Needs occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer
  • Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
20
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Ethoxydiglycol
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Ferulic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Hyaluronic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Succinoglycan
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Polyacrylate
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Citrate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Metabisulfite
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
9.8
4
3
1.5
1.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.9
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 9.8 10
9.8
4
3
1.5
1.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
4.9
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
3
1.5
1.3
All humectants 9.8 10
9.8
All humectants
9.8
4
3
1.5
1.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 20 -
Total
0
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
20
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
20
2
1.5
All antioxidants 23.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
23.5
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
20
Ferulic Acid
2
Hyaluronic Acid
1.5
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1.3
All soothing 1.3 5 No
All soothing
1.3
1.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Est. %20
Function
Origin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidA derivative of vitamin C. Its stability in skincare formulations is better than ascorbic acid’s, although clinical studies are yet to indicate whether it has the same collagen-boosting benefits.
Ethoxydiglycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
EthoxydiglycolA type of alcohol with humectant moisturizing properties. It also acts as a solvent, since it mixes well with a variety of other compounds, including water and even some oils.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Ferulic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Ferulic AcidA plant-based phenolic acid with powerful and scientifically proven antioxidant properties. It enhances the effects of vitamins C and E, as well as the UV protective effects of sunscreens.
Hyaluronic Acid
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Hyaluronic Acid

A potent, skin-identical humectant moisturizing ingredient that is able to bind water 1000 times its own weight. The anti-aging benefits of hyaluronic acid are due to its ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateA chelating agent that disables harmful heavy metal ions present in skincare.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HydroxyethylcelluloseA naturally-derived thickener that can form clear gel textures without the slimy feeling, unlike some other natural gel-formers.
Succinoglycan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Succinoglycan
Sodium Polyacrylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PolyacrylateThis white powder is primarily used as a viscosity controlling agent. It is added to the water phase, which then thickens to form a clear gel. Sodium polyacrylate can also serve as an emollient, absorbent, and emulsion stabilizer.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Sodium Citrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium CitrateA salt of citric acid that has a salty and tart flavor and is used as a fragrance. It is mildly basic, meaning that its addition to a skincare product can adjust the pH upward.
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Potassium Metabisulfite
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium Metabisulfite