Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel Review

Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel
3.7
/ 10
Moisturizing
7.4 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel has to offer:
 
  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 3.7 out of 10.
  • Soothing: Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizer Well-Suited for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel is lightly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 3.7 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a high humectancy of 7.4 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Butylene Glycol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is well-suited for oily skin, providing moderate hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Enhancement for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant enhancement will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Centella Asiatica Extract (est. ≈2.5%) and Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (est. ≈2.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract (est. ≈5.0%), Centella Asiatica Extract (est. ≈2.5%) and Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (est. ≈2.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Centella Asiatica Extract and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically exclude the possibility that these ingredients may reduce wrinkles, their efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were accessible to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Calm Down AHA/BHA Acne Spot Gel to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing well-suited for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing enhancement, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
  • Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients like Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract

Cons: 

  • Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants
  • Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
70
7.5
5
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Protease
Function:
Origin:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Centella Asiatica Extract
Function:
Origin:
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Dipropylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Boswellia Serrata Gum
Function:
Origin:
Polyurethane-35
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Medica Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Seed Extract
Function:
Origin:
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Pulp Extract
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Benzoic Acid
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
7.4
3
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
3.7
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 7.4 10
7.4
3
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
3.7
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
3
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
All humectants 7.4 10
7.4
All humectants
7.4
3
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 2.5 -
n/a
- 1.3 -
Total
0
Centella Asiatica Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
2.5
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
1.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 9.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
9.5
Centella Asiatica Extract
2.5
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
2
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
1.5
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
1.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
1
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
0.3
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
0.3
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract
0.3
Citrus Medica Flower Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
5
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 14.2 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
14.2
5
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %70
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Protease
Est. %7.5
Function
Origin
Protease
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract
Est. %5
Function
Origin
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) ExtractAn extract obtained from the whole German chamomile plant that contains nice-smelling chamazulene and bisabolol, as well as large amounts of soothing mucilage.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Centella Asiatica Extract
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Centella Asiatica ExtractAn extract from the leaves of the Gotu kola. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It increases the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root ExtractAn extract from the roots of the Japanese knotweed, a plant from East Asia that has spread around the world as an invasive plant. It contains various antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and potentially anti-pigment (more tests are necessary) phytochemicals.
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractA powerful antioxidant, soothing, and astringent extract derived from the roots of Baikal/Chinese skullcap. It contains various unique flavonoids that are believed to soothe irritated and inflamed skin and protect from UV-induced oxidative damage.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

An antioxidant green tea extract. In the deeper layers, it slows down the destruction of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid – thus delaying the signs of aging. It also acts as an anti-acne, soothing, moisturizing, and emollient ingredient.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower ExtractDerived from German chamomile flowers, this extract is especially known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. It contains two soothing compounds called chamazulene and bisabolol, as well as antioxidant flavonoids.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf ExtractA soothing and astringent extract derived from the fragrant, spicy leaves of rosemary. It has strong antioxidant properties. Rosemary extract can reduce signs of inflammation and also acts as an emollient and antimicrobial agent.
Dipropylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipropylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid that has several uses. One of its main functions is as a solvent. Dipropylene glycol is also used to reduce the thickness of skincare products.
Boswellia Serrata Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Boswellia Serrata Gum
Polyurethane-35
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyurethane-35
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) ExtractAn antioxidant extract from sugarcane, the famous crop used to make sugar. It acts as a humectant and exfoliating agent – the little sugar crystals mechanically remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface.
Citrus Medica Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Medica Flower Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Seed Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Seed Extract
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Pulp Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Pulp Extract
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Sorbitan Caprylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan Caprylate
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Benzoic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Benzoic AcidA preservative effective against fungi, yeast, and some bacteria. It is commonly paired with phenoxyethanol to create a broad spectrum preservation system. Benzoic acid can also serve as a pH adjuster, fragrance, and bulking agent.