Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum Review

Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum
4.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
7.9 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum has to offer:
 
  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.0 out of 10.
  • Soothing: Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.

Key Benefits of Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizer Well-Suited for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 4.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a high humectancy of 7.9 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈4.0%) and Glycerin (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is well-suited for oily skin, providing moderate hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Enhancement for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant enhancement will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Azelaic Acid (est. ≈10.0%) and Lactobacillus Ferment (est. ≈3.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Lactobacillus Ferment, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Lactobacillus Ferment provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically exclude the possibility that Lactobacillus Ferment may reduce wrinkles, its efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were accessible to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Dose By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing well-suited for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing enhancement, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients like Azelaic Acid and Lactobacillus Ferment

Cons: 

  • Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants
  • Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
10
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Lactobacillus Ferment
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Silica
Function:
Origin:
Ergothioneine
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Gluconate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Lactate
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Function:
Origin:
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
7.9
4
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 7.9 10
7.9
4
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
4.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 7.9 10
7.9
All humectants
7.9
4
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 3 -
Total
0
Lactobacillus Ferment
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.3
1
All antioxidants 2.3 3 No
All antioxidants
2.3
Ergothioneine
1.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
1
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
10
3
0.3
All soothing 13.3 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
13.3
10
3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Azelaic Acid
Est. %10
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
Propanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Lactobacillus Ferment
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Lactobacillus FermentA biotechnological product – a mixture of metabolic products of Lactobacillus culture. Some Lactobacillus forms have been reported to have anti-wrinkle and barrier repairing effects, as well as able to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and gloss.
Glycerin
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Silica
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
SilicaA widely used cosmetic ingredient with the same chemical composition as the sand found on beaches. A common function of silica is its ability to control viscosity. In certain chemical forms, it can effectively thicken cream-style products.
Ergothioneine
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
ErgothioneineA naturally-occurring amino acid that functions as a powerful and versatile antioxidant.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Sodium Gluconate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium GluconateA chelating ingredient that ensures that the harmful metal ions in a formula are unreactive. It also protects other ingredients from degrading.
Sodium Lactate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium LactateA sodium salt of lactic acid. Its main function is as a humectant but it can also serve as a pH adjuster. Additionally, sodium lactate can also be used as a chemical exfoliant due to its close chemical relation to lactic acid.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateA biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.