Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum | Unbiased Skincare Efficacy Review by AI

Review

Does Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum Work?

According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum has to offer:

Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.0 out of 10.

Slight anti-wrinkle effect: Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 1.2 out of 10, so you may expect a positive, although insignificant, effect on wrinkles.

Key Benefits of Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum

These are the key benefits you can expect from using Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum:

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 4.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a very high humectancy of 8.0 out of 10, due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%) and Propylene Glycol (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Slight Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 1.2 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Glycolic Acid (est. ≈4.0%),

a highly effective ingredient in peelings but with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy in leave-on skincare products, as supported by a single clinical study. This study, involving 72 participants (Thibault et al.), demonstrated that a lotion with 5% GA reduced the fine wrinkling score by 6% after 34 days of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without GA).

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum

CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum to your skincare routine:

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum

Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:

Pros:

Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
Lightweight texture
A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine

Provides slight anti-wrinkle efficacy

Cons:

Needs occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer

Antimicrobial
Anti-Seborrheic
Fragrance
Preservative
Colorant
Formula helpers

Other

Est. % The Estimated % is our algorithm-based assumption about an ingredient's concentration in a formula. Learn more The Estimated % is our algorithm-based assumption about an ingredient's concentration in a formula. Learn more	Ingredient	Origin	Functions
80	Water The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients. Water The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.	Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water. Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water.	Formula helper Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Formula helper Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients.
6	Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective. Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.) Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
4	Glycolic Acid The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums. Glycolic Acid The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Formula helper pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. Formula helper pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
3	Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose A natural viscosity controlling agent that is commonly used in skin cleansing products to thicken the consistency. It also functions as an emulsion stabilizing agent and binding agent. Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose A natural viscosity controlling agent that is commonly used in skin cleansing products to thicken the consistency. It also functions as an emulsion stabilizing agent and binding agent.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Formula helper Adhesive – allows products to better stick to the skin. Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Adhesive – allows products to better stick to the skin. Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
2	Propylene Glycol A clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin. Propylene Glycol A clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Formula helper Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
1.5	Hydroxyacetophenone An antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants. Hydroxyacetophenone An antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Antioxidant Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging. Antioxidant Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging.
1	Phenoxyethanol The most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless. Phenoxyethanol The most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Antimicrobial, Antimicrobials prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms on the skin. Antimicrobial, Antimicrobials prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms on the skin. Preservative Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Preservative Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product.
1	Salicylic Acid This effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores. Salicylic Acid This effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Anti-Seborrheic, Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis. Anti-Seborrheic, Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable.
0.3	Amylopectin Amylopectin		Formula helper Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Anticaking – prevents the formation of clumps. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Slip modifier – provides lubricity to a product. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Anticaking – prevents the formation of clumps. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Slip modifier – provides lubricity to a product. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
0.3	Dextrin A partially hydrolyzed potato starch, most commonly used as a viscosity controlling and binding agent. When dispersed into water, it can create textures ranging from a thick paste to a soft gel. Dextrin A partially hydrolyzed potato starch, most commonly used as a viscosity controlling and binding agent. When dispersed into water, it can create textures ranging from a thick paste to a soft gel.	Botanical Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials.	Formula helper Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Bulking – increases the volume of a product. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Bulking – increases the volume of a product. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
0.3	Xanthan Gum A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together. Xanthan Gum A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.	Formula helper Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
0.3	Sodium Polyacrylate This white powder is primarily used as a viscosity controlling agent. It is added to the water phase, which then thickens to form a clear gel. Sodium polyacrylate can also serve as an emollient, absorbent, and emulsion stabilizer. Sodium Polyacrylate This white powder is primarily used as a viscosity controlling agent. It is added to the water phase, which then thickens to form a clear gel. Sodium polyacrylate can also serve as an emollient, absorbent, and emulsion stabilizer.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Formula helper Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
0.3	Disodium Phosphate An inorganic ingredient primarily used in skincare products as a pH adjuster. Disodium Phosphate An inorganic ingredient primarily used in skincare products as a pH adjuster.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Formula helper Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients. pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. Formula helper Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients. pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
0.3	Polysorbate 60 An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance. Polysorbate 60 An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Formula helper Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Solubilizing – helps ingredients dissolve. Formula helper Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Solubilizing – helps ingredients dissolve.
0.3	CI 16255 CI 16255	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products. Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products.
0.3	Sodium Phosphate A sodium salt of phosphoric acid that increases pH. Sodium Phosphate A sodium salt of phosphoric acid that increases pH.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Formula helper pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. Formula helper pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
0.3	Blue 1 (CI 42090) A synthetic dye commonly known as Brilliant Blue FCF that produces rich blue colors for various cosmetic uses. FD&C Blue #1 can also be found in foods, medications, and dietary supplements, as it is considered non-toxic and safe for use. Blue 1 (CI 42090) A synthetic dye commonly known as Brilliant Blue FCF that produces rich blue colors for various cosmetic uses. FD&C Blue #1 can also be found in foods, medications, and dietary supplements, as it is considered non-toxic and safe for use.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products. Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products.

Water

Function:

Origin:

Glycerin

Function:

Origin:

Glycolic Acid

Function:

Origin:

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Function:

Origin:

Propylene Glycol

Function:

Origin:

1.5

Hydroxyacetophenone

Function:

Origin:

Phenoxyethanol

Function:

Origin:

Salicylic Acid

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Amylopectin

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Dextrin

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Xanthan Gum

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Sodium Polyacrylate

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Disodium Phosphate

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Polysorbate 60

Function:

Origin:

0.3

CI 16255

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Sodium Phosphate

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Blue 1 (CI 42090)

Function:

Origin:

Ratings

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Benchmark

None

Benchmark

Moisturizing rating

4.0

Ingredient		Est. %	Benchmark Sciense based points to which we compare all humectants and all occlusives in a product to calculate its Humectancy and Occlusivity. Sciense based points to which we compare all humectants and all occlusives in a product to calculate its Humectancy and Occlusivity.	Raiting
Humectancy	All humectants	8	10	8.0
	Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective. Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.	6
	Propylene Glycol A clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin. Propylene Glycol A clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.	2
Occlusivity	All occlusives	0.0	20	0.0
	None
Moisturizing rating				4.0

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark According to various studies, a formula made up of 10% humectants will significantly increase skin hydration. Some studies also suggest that any further icrease in the consentration of humectants does not translate inty any more hydration and may even be dehydrating. To achieve maximum Humectancy, the product should have humectants with a total score of 10 and more. According to various studies, a formula made up of 10% humectants will significantly increase skin hydration. Some studies also suggest that any further icrease in the consentration of humectants does not translate inty any more hydration and may even be dehydrating. To achieve maximum Humectancy, the product should have humectants with a total score of 10 and more.	Humectancy
Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective. Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.	6
Propylene Glycol A clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin. Propylene Glycol A clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.	2
All humectants	8	10	8

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Benchmark

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark The most occlusive product possible is 100% petrolatum (hello Vaseline Jelly). According to studies, hovewer, even 10% petrolatum can achieve almost the same mosturizing effect. The occlusive properties of petrolatum are at least twice as superior as other occlusive ingredients. This is why, in order to match the moisturizing efficacy of 10% petrolatum, a product needs to contain at least 20% of other occlusives. Our benchmark for maximum Occlusivity is 20 (and the petrolatum score is always doubled). The most occlusive product possible is 100% petrolatum (hello Vaseline Jelly). According to studies, hovewer, even 10% petrolatum can achieve almost the same mosturizing effect. The occlusive properties of petrolatum are at least twice as superior as other occlusive ingredients. This is why, in order to match the moisturizing efficacy of 10% petrolatum, a product needs to contain at least 20% of other occlusives. Our benchmark for maximum Occlusivity is 20 (and the petrolatum score is always doubled).	Occlusivity
None
All occlusives	0.0	20	0.0

None

Benchmark

Ingredient	Ingredient anti-wrinkle power Shows on a scale of 0-10 how effective an ingredient is at reducing wrinkles. Both the Reported Efficacy of the ingredient and the Strength of Evidence are taken into account. Shows on a scale of 0-10 how effective an ingredient is at reducing wrinkles. Both the Reported Efficacy of the ingredient and the Strength of Evidence are taken into account.	when present at, %	in this formula est. %	Rating
Glycolic Acid The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums. Glycolic Acid The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.	1.5 /10	5	4	1.2
Total				1.2

Glycolic Acid

1.2

Ingredient anti-wrinkle power

1.5 /10

when present at, %

in this formula, est. %

Anti-wrinkle rating

1.2

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark It differs from one antioxidant ingredient to another, but, on average, the research suggests that topically applied antioxidants are effective in consentrations of 3% or above. Any product with a total antioxidant score of 3 or more is considered to be reach in antioxidants. It differs from one antioxidant ingredient to another, but, on average, the research suggests that topically applied antioxidants are effective in consentrations of 3% or above. Any product with a total antioxidant score of 3 or more is considered to be reach in antioxidants.	Rich in Antioxidants
Hydroxyacetophenone An antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants. Hydroxyacetophenone An antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.	1.5
All antioxidants	1.5	3	No

Hydroxyacetophenone

1.5

Benchmark

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark The effective concentration of soothing ingredients varies, but we consider a product rich in soothing ingredients if their estimated concentration is equal to or higher than 5%. The effective concentration of soothing ingredients varies, but we consider a product rich in soothing ingredients if their estimated concentration is equal to or higher than 5%.	Rich in Soothing
Salicylic Acid This effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores. Salicylic Acid This effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.	1
All soothing	1	5	No

Salicylic Acid

Benchmark

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %	80
Function	Solvent Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Solvent Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients.
Origin	Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water. Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water.

The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.

Glycerin
Est. %	6
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Denaturant, Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Denaturant, Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Solvent, Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Solvent, Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.) Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Glycolic Acid
Est. %	4
Function	Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Est. %	3
Function	Adhesive, Adhesive – allows products to better stick to the skin. Adhesive, Adhesive – allows products to better stick to the skin. Antistatic, Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Antistatic, Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Film-Forming, Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Film-Forming, Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A natural viscosity controlling agent that is commonly used in skin cleansing products to thicken the consistency. It also functions as an emulsion stabilizing agent and binding agent.

Propylene Glycol
Est. %	2
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Solvent, Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Solvent, Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.

Hydroxyacetophenone
Est. %	1.5
Function	Antioxidant Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging. Antioxidant Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

An antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %	1
Function	Antimicrobial, Antimicrobials prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms on the skin. Antimicrobial, Antimicrobials prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms on the skin. Preservative Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Preservative Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

The most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.

Salicylic Acid
Est. %	1
Function	Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Anti-Seborrheic, Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis. Anti-Seborrheic, Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Denaturant Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Denaturant Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

This effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.

Amylopectin
Est. %	0.3
Function	Absorbent, Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Absorbent, Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Anticaking, Anticaking – prevents the formation of clumps. Anticaking, Anticaking – prevents the formation of clumps. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Slip Modifier, Slip modifier – provides lubricity to a product. Slip Modifier, Slip modifier – provides lubricity to a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin

Dextrin
Est. %	0.3
Function	Absorbent, Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Absorbent, Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Bulking, Bulking – increases the volume of a product. Bulking, Bulking – increases the volume of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials.

A partially hydrolyzed potato starch, most commonly used as a viscosity controlling and binding agent. When dispersed into water, it can create textures ranging from a thick paste to a soft gel.

Xanthan Gum
Est. %	0.3
Function	Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsifying, Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsifying, Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Gel-Forming, Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Gel-Forming, Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.

A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.

Sodium Polyacrylate
Est. %	0.3
Function	Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Absorbent, Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Absorbent, Absorbent – soaks up excess oil from the skin. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Film-Forming, Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Film-Forming, Film-forming – creates a film to increase wear time. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

This white powder is primarily used as a viscosity controlling agent. It is added to the water phase, which then thickens to form a clear gel. Sodium polyacrylate can also serve as an emollient, absorbent, and emulsion stabilizer.

Disodium Phosphate
Est. %	0.3
Function	Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Anticorrosive, Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients. Anticorrosive, Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

An inorganic ingredient primarily used in skincare products as a pH adjuster.

Polysorbate 60
Est. %	0.3
Function	Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Emulsifying, Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsifying, Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Solubilizing Solubilizing – helps ingredients dissolve. Solubilizing Solubilizing – helps ingredients dissolve.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.

CI 16255
Est. %	0.3
Function	Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products. Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

Sodium Phosphate
Est. %	0.3
Function	pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A sodium salt of phosphoric acid that increases pH.

Blue 1 (CI 42090)
Est. %	0.3
Function	Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products. Colorant Colorants give color to skincare products.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A synthetic dye commonly known as Brilliant Blue FCF that produces rich blue colors for various cosmetic uses. FD&C Blue #1 can also be found in foods, medications, and dietary supplements, as it is considered non-toxic and safe for use.