Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil

Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
0.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
10.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Does Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil:

  • Strong occlusive moisturizing. This exceptionally occlusive moisturizer, ideal for dry and very dry skin, has a moderate moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10, impaired by the absence of humectants.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Moisturizer with the right occlusivity for very dry skin, ideally to be paired with a humectant-rich product

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely occlusive. It has zero Humectancy (we didn't find any humectant ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum Occlusivity of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (est. ≈11.0%), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (est. ≈6.0%) and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (est. ≈2.1%).

This type of product, when used as a standalone moisturizer, can deliver an exceptional level of occlusive hydration that is adequate for dry to very skin. The occlusive profile of Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil suggests a rich, thick texture, making it perfectly suited for dry skin.

However, it contains no humectants, and people with dry skin would definitely benefit from adding water-binding humectants to their moisturizing routine for effective dual-action moisturizing. If this is your only moisturizer, it may be worth including a humectant-rich product, such as a serum, in your skincare routine.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Retinyl Propionate, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Retinyl Propionate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in skin-protecting antioxidants

We estimate that Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (est. ≈2.1%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
45
22
11
6
4
3
2.1
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Coconut Alkanes
Function:
Origin:
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
Function:
Origin:
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Function:
Origin:
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
C13-15 Alkane
Function:
Origin:
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Function:
Origin:
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Function:
Origin:
Retinyl Propionate
Function:
Origin:
Butyl Avocadate
Function:
Origin:
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Function:
Origin:
Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
Function:
Origin:
Sclareolide
Function:
Origin:
Triolein
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
BHT
Function:
Origin:
Propyl Gallate
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
0.0
None
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
20.7
11.0
6.0
2.1
1.0
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 0.0 10
0.0
None
Occlusivity All occlusives 20.7 20
10.0
11.0
6.0
2.1
1.0
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
None
All humectants 0.0 10
0.0
All humectants
0.0
None
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
11
6
2.1
1
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 20.7 20
10.0
All occlusives
20.7
11.0
6.0
2.1
1.0
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Retinyl Propionate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 3.3 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
3.3
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
2.1
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
BHT
0.3
Propyl Gallate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
0.3
All soothing 2.3 5 No
All soothing
2.3
2
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Coconut Alkanes
Est. %45
Function
Origin
Coconut AlkanesAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient mixture that is similar to paraffin. It is produced from coconut oil and can allegedly form a soft, non-greasy film on the skin’s surface. It can be used as an alternative to silicones.
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
Est. %22
Function
Origin
PPG-15 Stearyl EtherA synthetic ingredient that has a slippery feel and can be combined with many other ingredients acting as a solvent.
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Est. %11
Function
Origin
Rosa Canina Fruit OilAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient oil extracted from the little hard seeds inside of the red, fleshy rosehip. It contains mainly emollient fatty acids and a very high amount of antioxidant carotenoids, which give the oil its light orange color.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OilA liquid plant wax, also known as Jojoba oil, pressed from the seeds of Simmondsia chinensis. These seeds can contain up to 50% of liquid wax. It is used as an occlusive moisturizer, emollient, and emulsifier.
C13-15 Alkane
Est. %4
Function
Origin
C13-15 Alkane
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Coco-Caprylate/CaprateA naturally-derived emollient ester. It is a blend of caprylates and caprates and, relative to other emollients, is lightweight and dry on the skin. As a result, coco-caprylate/caprate serves as a natural alternative to volatile silicones.
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Est. %2.1
Function
Origin
Argania Spinosa Kernel OilA fatty oil from Moroccan argan tree kernels commonly used as an occlusive moisturizer and emollient. Its uniqueness comes from its compounds: vitamin E, phospholipids, phenolic compounds, and rare phytosterols with antioxidant and emollient effects.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Retinyl Propionate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Retinyl PropionateAn esterified vitamin A that has better stability and, according to studies, works just as well as retinol in anti-aging and acne-reducing products. It speeds up skin cell regeneration and boosts collagen production.
Butyl Avocadate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butyl Avocadate
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phenylethyl ResorcinolA derivative of resorcinol whose anti-pigment activity is well-researched and backed by science. It is very light-sensitive and must be protected by packaging or careful formulation.
Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
Sclareolide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sclareolide
Triolein
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Triolein
Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

BHT
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BHTAn antioxidant ingredient that naturally occurs in green algae and some bacteria or fungi but, for commercial use, is created synthetically. BHT is also used occasionally as a fragrance, where it presents a sweet, camphor-like odor.
Propyl Gallate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Propyl GallateA semi-synthetic antioxidant manufactured from plant-based gallic acid. It protects the oils in the formulation from degrading and going rancid.