COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion Review

COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.2Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Review

Does COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.
  • Modest anti-wrinkle efficacy: COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.2 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

Key Benefits of COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%) and Propanediol (est. ≈4.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Modest Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion has a modest level of anti-wrinkle efficacy, rated 2.2 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈1.5%), 
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of COLLISTAR Milano Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide Lotion to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Offers modest anti-wrinkle efficacy

Cons: 

  • Needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
80
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Acacia Senegal Gum
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyacetophenone
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
11.8
6
4
1.5
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 11.8 10
10.0
6
4
1.5
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
1.5
0.3
All humectants 11.8 10
10
All humectants
11.8
6
4
1.5
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 1.5 2.2
Total
2.2
Niacinamide
2.2
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
1.5
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.5
1
0.3
All antioxidants 2.8 3 No
All antioxidants
2.8
Niacinamide
1.5
Hydroxyacetophenone
1
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
1.5
All soothing 3.5 5 No
All soothing
3.5
2
1.5
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %80
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Propanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Acacia Senegal Gum
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Acacia Senegal GumA formula helper, also known as gum arabic, derived from the African Acacia tree. It is used in skincare formulas due to its good adhesive and film-forming properties.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Niacinamide
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Hydroxyacetophenone
Est. %1
Function
Origin
HydroxyacetophenoneAn antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosa Canina Fruit ExtractAn extract from the fruits of the Rosa canina, better known as rosehip. It contains carotenoids, which give it its bright, orange-red color, as well as high amounts of antioxidant vitamin C, flavonoids, tannins, and organic acids.