Allies Of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum

Allies Of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum
5.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.6 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Results you may expect from using Allies Of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Allies Of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Allies Of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.6 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈35.0%) and Glycerin (est. ≈22.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Allies Of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Callus Culture Extract, and Gluconolactone. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Allies Of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈20.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
35
Propanediol
22
Glycerin
20
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
6
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
4
Dimethyl Isosorbide
3
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
2
Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate
1.5
Ethoxydiglycol
1
Dicaprylyl Ether
0.3
Water
0.3
Caprylyl Glycol
0.3
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Callus Culture Extract
0.3
Glutathione
0.3
Acetyl Cysteine
0.3
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
0.3
Ergothioneine
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Gluconolactone
0.3
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
0.3
Xanthan Gum
0.3
Silica
0.3
Sodium Benzoate
0.3
Calcium Gluconate
0.3
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Function:
Origin:
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate
Function:
Origin:
Ethoxydiglycol
Function:
Origin:
Dicaprylyl Ether
Function:
Origin:
Water
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Callus Culture Extract
Function:
Origin:
Glutathione
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Cysteine
Function:
Origin:
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Function:
Origin:
Ergothioneine
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Gluconolactone
Function:
Origin:
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Silica
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Calcium Gluconate
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
59.4
35
22
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 59.4 10
10.0
35
22
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
3.0
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
35
22
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 59.4 10
10
All humectants
59.4
35
22
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
0.3
All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 20 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
20
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Callus Culture Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Gluconolactone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
20
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 21.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
21.5
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
20
Glutathione
0.3
Acetyl Cysteine
0.3
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
0.3
Ergothioneine
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
None
All soothing 0 5 No
All soothing
0
None
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Propanediol
Est. %35
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Glycerin
Est. %22
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Est. %20
Function
Origin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidA derivative of vitamin C. Its stability in skincare formulations is better than ascorbic acid’s, although clinical studies are yet to indicate whether it has the same collagen-boosting benefits.
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl PolymethylsilsesquioxaneDescription is coming soon
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Dimethyl IsosorbideA solvent for active ingredients that is claimed to help them better penetrate the outer layer of skin. It also helps to reduce the thickness of a product.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed WaxA solid wax obtained during the refining of crude sunflower oil. The majority of the wax comes from the shells, or hulls, of the sunflower seeds. It is used in skincare as an emollient and occlusive moisturizer, helping to prevent water loss from the skin.
Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-10 TristearateDescription is coming soon
Ethoxydiglycol
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
EthoxydiglycolA type of alcohol with humectant moisturizing properties. It also acts as a solvent, since it mixes well with a variety of other compounds, including water and even some oils.
Dicaprylyl Ether
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Dicaprylyl EtherA fast-spreading and very lightweight emollient. It is used to reduce the tack and oiliness of oil-based formulas and gives the skin a dry, silky after-feel. It is also a great solvent.
Water
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Callus Culture Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Callus Culture ExtractAn extract from the stems of the sweet orange tree. The manufacturer claims that it is able to improve skin tissue structure, increase the synthesis of collagen, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Glutathione
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlutathioneA naturally occurring tripeptide that combats free radicals and acts as a reducing agent.
Acetyl Cysteine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl CysteineDescription is coming soon
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethylmethoxy ChromanolA synthetic ingredient designed to work as an antioxidant.
Ergothioneine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ErgothioneineA naturally-occurring amino acid that functions as a powerful and versatile antioxidant.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Gluconolactone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GluconolactoneA PHA derived from glucose. It has exfoliating and humectant properties and acts as a penetration enhancer for other ingredients. It has also been shown to assist in the treatment of acne and the prevention of photoaging.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateA biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Silica
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SilicaA widely used cosmetic ingredient with the same chemical composition as the sand found on beaches. A common function of silica is its ability to control viscosity. In certain chemical forms, it can effectively thicken cream-style products.
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Calcium Gluconate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Calcium GluconateA white crystalline powder that can act as a humectant when dissolved into water. It is also a chelating agent.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.