Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Serum

Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Serum
5.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.6 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity

Review

Results you may expect from using Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.6 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈6.0%), Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%) and Betaine (est. ≈2.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Beta-Glucan, an ingredient marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Beta-Glucan provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
Water
6
Propanediol
4
Glycerin
3
Dimethicone
2
Betaine
1.5
Glycereth-26
1.3
Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate
1
Sodium PCA
0.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate
0.3
Beta-Glucan
0.3
PCA
0.3
Glutamic Acid
0.3
Lysine HCl
0.3
Threonine
0.3
Arginine
0.3
Proline
0.3
Serine
0.3
Alanine
0.3
Glycine
0.3
Xylitol
0.3
Sodium Polyacrylate
0.3
Carbomer
0.3
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
0.3
Hydrogenated Polydecene
0.3
Sodium Lactate
0.3
Trideceth-6
0.3
Pentylene Glycol
0.3
Sodium Phytate
0.3
Citric Acid
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Sodium Hydroxide
0.3
Phenoxyethanol
0.3
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Glycereth-26
Function:
Origin:
Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate
Function:
Origin:
Beta-Glucan
Function:
Origin:
PCA
Function:
Origin:
Glutamic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Lysine HCl
Function:
Origin:
Threonine
Function:
Origin:
Arginine
Function:
Origin:
Proline
Function:
Origin:
Serine
Function:
Origin:
Alanine
Function:
Origin:
Glycine
Function:
Origin:
Xylitol
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Polyacrylate
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Lactate
Function:
Origin:
Trideceth-6
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Phytate
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
20.0
6
4
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 20.0 10
10.0
6
4
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
3.0
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 20.0 10
10
All humectants
20.0
6
4
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
0.3
All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Beta-Glucan
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 0.9 3 No
All antioxidants
0.9
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Beta-Glucan
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
All soothing 0.6 5 No
All soothing
0.6
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Propanediol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Dimethicone
Est. %3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Betaine
Est. %2
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Glycereth-26
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Glycereth-26

A glycerin-based ingredient with humectant moisturizing properties. It is an excellent emulsifier and thickener.

Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate
Sodium PCA
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.
Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate
Beta-Glucan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Beta-GlucanA special polysaccharide obtained from cereals, mushrooms, yeast, bacteria, and some species of seaweed. It is a promising anti-wrinkle, wound healing, antioxidant, and moisturizing ingredient.
PCA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PCAAlso known as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, this ingredient is one of the main components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (which prevents the skin’s surface from drying out).
Glutamic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glutamic AcidA non-essential amino acid that serves as a building block for all proteins in the body. It is a moisturizing humectant and a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of amino acids in skin cells that keeps them hydrated.
Lysine HCl
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lysine HClLysine HCl is a chloride salt of lysine, an essential, slightly alkaline amino acid. It has the same function as the non-salt version - it is a humectant moisturizing and emollient ingredient that, due to its sometimes undesirable aroma, is not often used.
Threonine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ThreonineAn essential amino acid that may play a role in collagen production. However, more research is needed in order to confirm or deny these claims.
Arginine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ArginineA humectant amino acid used to attract water to the skin’s surface. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Arginine can also be used as a pH adjuster.
Proline
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ProlineThe best humectant moisturizer of all the amino acids. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and increases hydration in the top layers of the skin. It also has antioxidant activity and helps to heal damaged skin.
Serine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SerineA non-essential amino acid, meaning that our body can produce it. It is the largest constituent of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and is used in skincare as a humectant moisturizing ingredient.
Alanine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AlanineA simple amino acid used in skincare as a humectant moisturizing ingredient. It is a part of the so-called Natural Moisturizing Factor, a complex mixture of free amino acids and other water-soluble compounds found in skin cells.
Glycine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlycineA humectant moisturizing amino acid that is a part of skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor. Some recent studies suggest that it may have barrier repair properties.
Xylitol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
XylitolAn organic compound that is most well-known for its use as a sweetener that also protects your teeth from cavities. Xylitol is used in skincare as a moisturizing humectant and has been shown to improve the protective barrier function of the skin.
Sodium Polyacrylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PolyacrylateThis white powder is primarily used as a viscosity controlling agent. It is added to the water phase, which then thickens to form a clear gel. Sodium polyacrylate can also serve as an emollient, absorbent, and emulsion stabilizer.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerThis ingredient can refer to several kinds of dimethicone crosspolymers. Like other silicones, it makes products feel slippery and non-greasy but can also increase the thickness or improve the water-resistance of a formula.
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated PolydeceneA clear, colorless, highly viscous liquid that commonly serves as an emollient. This rich emollient is on the heavier side but provides a smooth sensorial profile upon application.
Sodium Lactate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium LactateA sodium salt of lactic acid. Its main function is as a humectant but it can also serve as a pH adjuster. Additionally, sodium lactate can also be used as a chemical exfoliant due to its close chemical relation to lactic acid.
Trideceth-6
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Trideceth-6
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Sodium Phytate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PhytateSodium phytate is a chelating agent that serves to remove heavy metal ions from water. Removing metal ions helps other ingredients, such as antioxidants and preservatives, to perform better and keep products from separating.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.