Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin Review

Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
8.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.
  • Potent anti-wrinkle effect. With an anti-wrinkle rating of 8.5 out of 10, Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin is highly potent in reducing wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, due to the high content of Propylene Glycol (est. ≈55.0%), Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%) and Sodium Hyaluronate (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Potent Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin has a very high anti-wrinkle rating of 8.5 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%) and Sodium Hyaluronate (est. ≈2.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%) and Azelaic Acid (est. ≈4.9%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin to your skincare routine:
 

May Increase Skin Photosensitivity Due to Retinol

This product contains retinol, which offers powerful anti-wrinkle benefits. The mechanism behind retinol’s action is boosting cell turnover. This process exposes new, more delicate skin, making it more vulnerable to sun damage.

As a result, using products with retinol may increase the skin's sensitivity, making it more prone to sunburn or irritation when exposed to UV rays.

To protect the skin, dermatologists recommend applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 throughout the duration of retinol treatment, along with avoiding direct sun exposure. Retinol should be used at night, as it is sensitive to sunlight and can lose its potency when exposed to UV rays.

Please always check the manufacturer's instructions for using the retinol-containing products, either on their website or product label.

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Cos De BAHA AC Azelaic Acid Hinokitiol Clear Skin to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Delivers potent anti-wrinkle efficacy thanks to Niacinamide and Retinol
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
  • Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients like Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid

Cons: 

  • May increase skin photosensitivity due to retinol
  • Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
55
22
5
4.9
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.1
0.3
Est. %
Propylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Water
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Hinokitiol
Function:
Origin:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
62.0
55
5
2
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 62 10
10.0
55
5
2
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
55
5
2
All humectants 62 10
10
All humectants
62.0
55
5
2
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 5 6
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
Total
8.5
Niacinamide
6
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
5
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Anti-wrinkle rating
8.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
5
2
0.3
All antioxidants 7.3 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
7.3
Niacinamide
5
Sodium Hyaluronate
2
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
5
4.9
1.5
0.3
All soothing 11.7 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
11.7
5
4.9
1.5
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Propylene Glycol
Est. %55
Function
Origin
Propylene GlycolA clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.
Water
Est. %22
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Niacinamide
Est. %5
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Azelaic Acid
Est. %4.9
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Salicylic Acid
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Hinokitiol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Hinokitiol
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf OilA fragrant and antioxidant essential tea tree oil praised for its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties. Tea tree oil helps to treat acne, inflamed skin, and small wounds. It might, however, cause allergies and skin irritations.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.