A two-part ingredient: Zinc helps to control sebum and bacteria in acne-prone skin, while skin-identical PCA is a moisturizing humectant. Zinc PCA may even boost collagen production and so is researched as a potential anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Moisturizing
Humectant
Moisturizing (Humectant)
Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid).
Humectant
Moisturizing (Humectant)
Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid).
Other functions
Anti-Acne,
Anti-Acne
Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads.
Anti-Acne,
Anti-Acne
Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads.
Anti-Seborrheic
Anti-Seborrheic
Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis.
Anti-Seborrheic
Anti-Seborrheic
Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis.
Origin
Synthetic
Synthetic
All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.
Synthetic
Synthetic
All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.
Zinc PCA is a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. In order to understand what Zinc PCA does, we need to have a closer look at each of the two parts of its molecule.
In short, it is a sebum-controlling, anti-acne, humectant moisturizing, and (potentially) anti-wrinkle ingredient especially suitable for oily, acne-prone skin.
The zinc part in Zinc PCA is responsible for the anti-acne, anti-seborrheic, and mild antibacterial action. Zinc ions are semi-essential for our skin and there are several enzymes that cannot function without them. It is theorized that zinc helps against acne by inhibiting the growth of acne-causing bacteria, through anti-inflammatory action, and by reducing the amount of testosterone in the skin, which reduces sebum production.
PCA stands for 2-Pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid. It is a skin-identical ingredient because it is produced in our tissues from glutamic acid. It is one of the important parts of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), a mixture of water-soluble molecules that help our skin to retain water. Salts of PCA are especially good at binding water.
Zinc PCA, a combination of these two elements, is truly a multi-purpose ingredient. A clinical study found the ingredient to be a beneficial addition to the skincare regime of people with moderate acne, reducing the number of lesions after two weeks.
In a test-tube study, the authors observed that treatment of skin cells with Zinc PCA increased the production of collagen, so it may be worth exploring as a potential anti-wrinkle ingredient.
This claim, however, needs more research.
Science
1
Glutsch, V., Hamm, H., & Goebeler, M. (2019). Zinc and skin: an update. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology : JDDG, 17(6), 589–596.
2
Sitohang, I., et al. (2020). Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical Nicotinamide Plus Antibacterial Adhesive Agents and Zinc-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid Versus Placebo as an Adjuvant Treatment for Moderate Acne Vulgaris in Indonesia: A Multicenter, Double-blind, Randomized, Controlled Trial. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 13(7), 27–31.
3
Fiume, M. M., et al. (2019). Safety Assessment of PCA (2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid) and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 38(2_suppl), 5S–11S.
4
Takino, Y., et al. (2012). Zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis. International journal of cosmetic science, 34(1), 23–28.
5
Aktaş Karabay, E., & Aksu Çerman, A. (2019). Serum zinc levels in seborrheic dermatitis: a case-control study. Turkish journal of medical sciences, 49(5), 1503–1508. https://doi.org/10.3906/sag-1906-72