Zinc PCA

A two-part ingredient: Zinc helps to control sebum and bacteria in acne-prone skin, while skin-identical PCA is a moisturizing humectant. Zinc PCA may even boost collagen production and so is researched as a potential anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Moisturizing
Other functions
Origin
Zinc PCA

Overview

Zinc PCA is a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. In order to understand what Zinc PCA does, we need to have a closer look at each of the two parts of its molecule.

In short, it is a sebum-controlling, anti-acne, humectant moisturizing, and (potentially) anti-wrinkle ingredient especially suitable for oily, acne-prone skin.

The zinc part in Zinc PCA is responsible for the anti-acne, anti-seborrheic, and mild antibacterial action. Zinc ions are semi-essential for our skin and there are several enzymes that cannot function without them. It is theorized that zinc helps against acne by inhibiting the growth of acne-causing bacteria, through anti-inflammatory action, and by reducing the amount of testosterone in the skin, which reduces sebum production.

PCA stands for 2-Pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid. It is a skin-identical ingredient because it is produced in our tissues from glutamic acid. It is one of the important parts of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), a mixture of water-soluble molecules that help our skin to retain water. Salts of PCA are especially good at binding water.

Zinc PCA, a combination of these two elements, is truly a multi-purpose ingredient. A clinical study found the ingredient to be a beneficial addition to the skincare regime of people with moderate acne, reducing the number of lesions after two weeks.

In a test-tube study, the authors observed that treatment of skin cells with Zinc PCA increased the production of collagen, so it may be worth exploring as a potential anti-wrinkle ingredient.

This claim, however, needs more research.

Science

1
Glutsch, V., Hamm, H., & Goebeler, M. (2019). Zinc and skin: an update. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology : JDDG, 17(6), 589–596.
2
Sitohang, I., et al. (2020). Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical Nicotinamide Plus Antibacterial Adhesive Agents and Zinc-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid Versus Placebo as an Adjuvant Treatment for Moderate Acne Vulgaris in Indonesia: A Multicenter, Double-blind, Randomized, Controlled Trial. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 13(7), 27–31.
3
Fiume, M. M., et al. (2019). Safety Assessment of PCA (2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid) and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 38(2_suppl), 5S–11S.
4
Takino, Y., et al. (2012). Zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis. International journal of cosmetic science, 34(1), 23–28.
5
Aktaş Karabay, E., & Aksu Çerman, A. (2019). Serum zinc levels in seborrheic dermatitis: a case-control study. Turkish journal of medical sciences, 49(5), 1503–1508. https://doi.org/10.3906/sag-1906-72