Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

A plant compound obtained from licorice root. It is a powerful soothing ingredient that acts similar to steroid hormones and helps to treat inflamed and irritated skin.
Soothing
Other functions
Origin
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Overview

Stearyl glycyrrhetinate is a chemically modified, bioactive plant compound derived from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra root).

It is used in skincare for the same purpose as the whole licorice extract: as a powerful anti-inflammatory and itch-soothing ingredient used in treating eczema, atopic dermatitis, or psoriasis. It is also very sweet and used as a flavoring agent.

It is very similar to glycyrrhizic acid, the main active ingredient of licorice. The bacteria or enzymes are used to chop off the sugar molecules, leaving only the active part of the molecule, glycyrrhetinic acid, which very much resembles steroid hormones. Stearyl alcohol is then added to increase its solubility in oils.

Read more about licorice root and its uses in skincare here: Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract.

Science

1
Kowalska, A., & Kalinowska‐Lis, U. (2019). 18 β ‐Glycyrrhetinic acid: its core biological properties and dermatological applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science.