Also known as Human Epidermal Growth Factor. It increases metabolism in skin cells and improves skin texture, elasticity, and firmness. There is some controversy around the use of growth factors in skincare.
Functions
Anti-Wrinkle,
Anti-Wrinkle
Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Anti-Wrinkle,
Anti-Wrinkle
Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Anti-Acne
Anti-Acne
Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads.
Anti-Acne
Anti-Acne
Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads.
Origin
Biotech
Biotech
The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.
Biotech
Biotech
The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.
Sh-Oligopeptide-1 is another name for Human Epidermal Growth Factor, or EGF.
It is a relatively bigger polypeptide consisting of 53 amino acids. Its effects on skin cells have been known since the 1950s, when the discovery led to a Nobel Prize.
It is created naturally in the dermis as a way to regulate its growth and the multiplication of skin cells called fibroblasts. This is called mitogenic activity. It brings along many other additional effects such as increased uptake of nutrients, increased skin metabolism, and enhanced synthesis of proteins and hyaluronic acid, which all add to the skin renewal process.
It is mostly researched in scientific publications for its wound healing properties, especially for difficult-to-heal wounds in diabetic patients or for the treatment of badly healed scars.
In the world of anti-aging skincare, it has received special attention in the form of a clinical study on 29 female volunteers for 3 months. It showed significant improvements in the appearance of fine lines and rhytids, skin texture, pore size, and various discolorations.
Another very recent clinical study of two commercial skincare products containing sh-Oligopeptide- 1 also showed significant improvements in skin elasticity and firmness (but with no effect on wrinkles).
Since this is a fairly large protein (and those are very difficult to get absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin) it will probably need a special delivery system, such as liposomes. The careful formulation of the skincare product is essential.
There is a lot of controversy surrounding epidermal growth factors, specifically their source (nowadays you can choose between human stem cells or bioengineered barley) and alleged ability to kick-start skin cancer processes.
The latter hasn’t been proven or disproven yet, although the anecdotal evidence suggests that they are safe.
Science
1
Huey, J., Sampath Narayanan, A., Jones, K., & Page, R. C. (1980). Effect of epidermal growth factor on the synthetic activity of human fibroblasts. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - General Subjects, 632(2), 227–233.
2
Stoddard, M. A., Herrmann, J., Moy, L., & Moy, R. (2017). Improvement of Atrophic Acne Scars in Skin of Color Using Topical Synthetic Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) Serum: A Pilot Study. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 16(4), 322–326.
3
Schouest, J. M., Luu, T. K., & Moy, R. L. (2012). Improved texture and appearance of human facial skin after daily topical application of barley produced, synthetic, human-like epidermal growth factor (EGF) serum. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 11(5), 613–620.
4
Sadowski, G., & Sadowski, J. (2020). Safety and Efficacy of a Novel Antiaging Skin Care Regimen Containing Neutraceuticals and Growth Factors on the Facial Skin of Women: A 12-Week Open-label Study. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 13(6), 24–34.
5
Ternullo, S., et al. (2018). Deformable liposomes for skin therapy with human epidermal growth factor: The effect of liposomal surface charge. European journal of pharmaceutical sciences : official journal of the European Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences, 125, 163–171.