Pantothenic Acid

Pantothenic acid, also known as Vitamin B5, is the active form of panthenol or dexpanthenol - which have to be oxidised in the skin in order to change into the active form.

There is one other precursor to Vitamin B5 called Pantethine (you can imagine it as two molecules of pantothenic acid joined together by a sulfur-containing bridge). Pantothenic acid is an irreplaceable building block of Coenzyme A and thus of many crucial processes in all living cells.

You’ve likely never heard of pantothenic acid, and there’s a reason for that. Pantothenic acid is almost completely overshadowed by panthenol in the skincare world.

Panthenol has better stability, better penetration abilities, and offers many varied, well-researched skincare abilities (read more about them here). This is due to its transformation to pantothenic acid in the skin.

Pantothenic acid is rarely used as a topical ingredient and instead is recommended for use in supplements aimed at improving overall skin health. It can improve skin healing, acne symptoms, and the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

There are no scientific studies that recommend adding pantothenic acid to creams or lotions. If you find it on the ingredient list, however, do not be alarmed. It will just offer a few simple moisturizing benefits, as it is able to bind and retain water to the skin’s surface.