A famous synthetically made peptide that works as a signal peptide, telling skin cells to create more collagen and other structural proteins. It has been clinically tested and found to be effective at reducing fine wrinkles.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is a famous peptide trademark called Matrixyl®. It consists of five amino acids (Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) with palmitic acid on one end of the chain to enhance its solubility in oils and penetration through the skin lipid barrier.
This amino acid sequence can be found in the collagen precursors and was first identified at the University of Tennessee in 1986. It works as a signal peptide, telling the cells around it to make more collagen I, collagen III, and fibronectin.
There have been many research articles published about this promising skincare ingredient (most of them being done in test tubes). The biggest double-blinded clinical study was made up of 94 Caucasian women and it found that after 8 and 12 weeks of treatment with a 3 ppm cream, the Matrixyl group had shorter wrinkles with better clinical assessment, somewhat better skin texture, and fewer age spots.
Another clinical study on 180 female volunteers showed a robust result for this peptide in reducing bumpy texture and fine wrinkles.
Another good result comes from the skin penetration study which found that Matrixyl penetrates through the stratum corneum and into the deeper layers of the skin.
This is a very good result because proteins are famously bad at passing through the skin’s lipid barrier. The dermis is where they have to be in order to provide anti-aging effects.