Mandelic Acid

Derived from almonds, this ingredient is one of the gentlest AHAs and is used for its exfoliating and antimicrobial properties. It is particularly beneficial for acne but also helps to treat post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Functions
Origin
Mandelic Acid

Overview

Mandelic acid is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which are used in skincare for their exfoliating properties - they can gently loosen and remove dead cells from the skin’s surface.

Mandelic acid is derived from almonds and is one of the gentlest AHAs currently in use. Its relatively large molecule (when compared to other AHAs such as lactic or glycolic acid) gives it a slow penetration into the skin layers and slow-acting exfoliating properties.

Unlike other AHAs, however, mandelic acid is known for its promising antimicrobial properties – which make it the perfect AHA for acne-prone skin.

Low concentrations of mandelic acid (up to 6%) are used as a gentle treatment of aging skin, with, according to one study on 24 volunteers, increased skin elasticity and firmness after 4 weeks. Concentrations above 10% act as a chemical peel, often present in combination with salicylic or malic acid.

Two main indications of mandelic acid are acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the dark spots left on the skin after an inflammatory disease such as acne or rosacea).

Mandelic acid's antimicrobial properties are useful in the direct combat of acne and its exfoliating properties make it easier for comedones and blackheads to clear up and heal.

High-concentration mandelic acid peels have been proven effective in the treatment of dark spots.

Science

1
Jacobs, S. W., & Culbertson, E. J. (2018). Effects of Topical Mandelic Acid Treatment on Facial Skin Viscoelasticity. Facial plastic surgery : FPS, 34(6), 651–656.
2
Kontochristopoulos, G., & Platsidaki, E. (2017). Chemical peels in active acne and acne scars. Clinics in dermatology, 35(2), 179–182.
3
Taylor, M. B., et al. (2013). Successful short-term and long-term treatment of melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation using vitamin C with a full-face iontophoresis mask and a mandelic/malic acid skin care regimen. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 12(1), 45–50.
4
Garg, V.K., Sinha, S., Sarkar, R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylicmandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: a comparative study. Dermatol Surg. 2009;35:59-65.