Linolenic Acid

Linolenic acid is a fatty acid, meaning that it is an acid with a long, oil-soluble tail.

There are two different kinds of linolenic acid: Alpha-linolenic acid, an essential omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid, and gamma-linolenic acid, an essential omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid.

This sounds like a mouthful, so let’s break it down:

- The ‘essential’ just means that our body cannot make it on its own (i.e., we have to get it from food, supplements, or cosmetics). It is important in the production of other structures in our body and we can develop various health issues if we lack it.

- The ‘omega-3 polyunsaturated’ means that the long oil-soluble tail contains three double bonds (called unsaturated because they are missing some hydrogen atoms). The position of these double bonds is calculated from the end of the oil-soluble tail, marked omega, and in alpha-linolenic acid, the double bonds start at the carbon atom number 3. In gamma-linolenic acid, the double bond starts at carbon atom number 6, similarly to linoleic acid.

Linolenic acid in skincare helps to maintain skin structure and the normal growth of skin cells. It is necessary to maintain the barrier function of the skin, and skin diseases may develop if you lack it (including atopic dermatitis or eczema).

Linolenic acid also prevents transepidermal water loss and has moisturizing (occlusive) and emollient properties. Since it is a polyunsaturated fatty acid, it is especially suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. This is because it feels light and doesn't leave an oily, sticky residue on the skin.

The best source of linolenic acid is vegetable oils. Alpha-linolenic acid can be found in chia and kiwifruit seeds, perilla, camelina, and flaxseed oil, whereas gamma-linolenic acid is much rarer and can be found in evening primrose, borage, and blackcurrant seed oils.

Linolenic acid is a clear, colorless liquid and is very sensitive to oxidation (so it must be protected from air and light).