Kojic Acid

A bioactive compound isolated from various fungi or fermented products. It is one of the most common and potent anti-pigment and brightening ingredients, and has been successfully tested on humans.
Antioxidant
Other functions
Origin
Kojic Acid

Overview

Kojic acid is a bioactive compound isolated from various fungi such as the Aspergillus species or various fermented products. In skincare it is used as one of the most common and potent anti-pigment ingredients, for brightening skin tone and reducing pigment blemishes.

It inhibits an enzyme in the skin called tyrosinase, which is the main player in the process of melanin synthesis. It has been tested in a variety of ways and the most telling are the tests on volunteers with melasma – dark, discolored patches on the skin.

In these tests, kojic acid was effective in reducing the pigmented patches (the visible results were achieved after 12 weeks) although, in some cases, after they stopped using the kojic acid cream, the discoloration returned following sun exposure.

Kojic acid is a very reactive molecule, which is the very reason why it is an effective antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor. But, this also means that the skincare product has to be very well protected against light and air to prevent the inactivation of kojic acid.

Science

1
Saeedi, M., Eslamifar, M., & Khezri, K. (2019). Kojic acid applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 110, 582–593.