A smaller-molecule version of the regular hyaluronic acid. It is a powerful humectant that absorbs into the skin and offers moisturizing, smoothing, and anti-wrinkle effects. It is also slightly anti-inflammatory and displays subtle antioxidant properties.
Moisturizing
Humectant
Moisturizing (Humectant)
Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid).
Humectant
Moisturizing (Humectant)
Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid).
Antioxidant
Antioxidant
Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging.
Antioxidant
Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging.
Origin
Biotech,
Biotech
The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.
Biotech,
Biotech
The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.
Animal
Animal
Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)
Animal
Animal
Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (HHA) just a fancy name for the smaller version of the regular hyaluronic acid. You can read more about it here – Hyaluronic Acid – along with an explanation concerning the differences in molecular sizes.
Hyaluronic acid is one of nature’s best humectant moisturizing ingredients. It keeps our skin hydrated (not only on the surface but in the deeper layers as well) where it also supports the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the skin and binds and holds an incredible amount of water.
It is also slightly anti-inflammatory and displays subtle antioxidant properties.
The molecular size of the ingredients registered under this INCI name can range from 3 kDa to 300 kDa, which is in the ranges of low or very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
A particularly well-done study highlighted the difference between high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids. At a concentration of 0.1%, the smaller molecule hyaluronic acids (50 and 130 kDa) produced better results when comparing the wrinkle reduction, hydration, skin elasticity, and smoothness.
The bigger molecule hyaluronic acids (2000 kDa) only improved skin hydration and smoothness. This suggests that larger hyaluronic acid molecules sit on top of the skin and hydrate the surface, whereas the small, hydrolyzed molecules are able to induce bigger changes in the deeper layers of the skin.
This makes hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid a classic anti-aging and skin-plumping ingredient with almost no side effects.
Some test-tube experiments have controversially suggested that small molecular size hyaluronic acid and very small hyaluronic acid fragments may actually be pro-inflammatory, because they make the skin cells believe that something is damaged and falling apart. This, however, has not been confirmed on living skin, and test-tube experiments do not always exactly mimic real-life settings.
We are therefore not sure whether hydrolyzed hyaluronic acids with molecules sizes smaller than 20 kDa are pro-inflammatory for the skin or not.
Pavicic, T., et al. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 10(9), 990–1000.
3
M. Farwick, P. Lersch, G. Strutz (Evonik) (2008). Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid: Its Effects on Epidermal Gene Expression and Skin Ageing. SOFW Journal, 11.
4
Shin, Eun Ji, Park, Joo Woong, Choi, Ji Won, Seo, Jeong Yeon, & Park, Yong Il. (2016). Effects of Molecular Weights of Sodium Hyaluronate on the Collagen Synthesis, Anti-inflammation and Transdermal Absorption. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 42(3), 235–245.
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Humectant
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