Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid is an amino acid commonly used in cosmetics. It is used for its water-retaining properties as a humectant moisturizing ingredient. It is able to bind and retain moisture to the skin’s surface, as is typical for most amino acids. Glutamic acid is a part of Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of amino acids in skin cells that keeps them hydrated. Glutamic acid is water-soluble and so is easily washed away from the skin’s surface. It needs to be re-applied in order for the skin to receive its maximum moisturization benefits.

The polymerized version of glutamic acid is called polyglutamic acid. It was discovered as a component of the mucilage of the fermented soybean food ‘Natto’. Some species of Bacillus, including Bacillus natto, secrete polyglutamic acid as a by-product during fermentation. This polymer is classified as a humectant moisturizing and film-forming agent. It forms a smooth and soft film on the surface of the skin and provides hydration and protection to the skin.

Glutamic acid, having both acidic and basic groups, can be also used as a pH controlling agent which improves the stability of the skincare product. It also can be used in hair care as an antistatic agent.

Glutamic acid is a non-essential amino acid that serves as a building block of all proteins in our body. You might know it in the form of sodium glutamate, its sodium salt, the once-controversial flavor enhancer in processed foods. The safety commission has declared that the small amounts of glutamic acid included in skincare products are usually diluted enough to not cause any problems to people with a sodium glutamate intolerance. Make sure, however, to patch-test first to be certain.