Copper Tripeptide-1

A skin-identical, copper-binding peptide that promotes the synthesis of all structural elements in the skin.

Antioxidant
Soothing
Other functions
Origin
Copper Tripeptide-1

Overview

Copper Tripeptide-1, also known as Cu-GHK or under its trademarked name, Iamin®, has been known as a skincare ingredient since 1985, when its wound healing activity was first described.

It is a carrier peptide naturally found in human plasma, consisting of glycine, histidine, and alanine, whose job is to carry around copper atoms. Copper ions are important to many metabolic processes, but free copper can be toxic.

Copper tripeptide has been proven to be a good skincare ingredient for the treatment of wounds and scars; the copper complex promotes the synthesis of collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans, prevents overgrown collagen aggregates from forming, and controls the inflammatory and antioxidant response of healing skin tissue. Basically, it makes sure that everything heals as normally as possible.

In healthy skin, copper tripeptide acts as an anti-aging ingredient, stimulating the formation of new, healthy collagen. So far there have only been four studies made in vivo (on volunteers). All of them observed significantly reduced wrinkles, as well as increased skin elasticity, density, and thickness.

As an added bonus, according to the test-tube studies, it seems that this peptide can also pass into the deeper layers of the skin.

We’d advise a bit of caution with this ingredient, though, as copper can be toxic when applied in huge amounts. So give yourself a break from Cu-GHK every once in a while.

Science

1
Badenhorst et al. Effects of GHK-Cu on MMP and TIMP Expression, Collagen and Elastin Production, and Facial Wrinkle Parameters.
2
Leyden, J.J., Stevens, T., Finkey, M.B. and Barkovic, S. Skin care benefits of copper peptide containing eye creams. In: American Academy of Dermatology 60th Annual Meeting (Gaspari, A.A., Goldberg, L.H., Gupta, A.K. et al., ed.), pp. 29, American Academy of Dermatology, New Orleans, LA, USA (2002).
3
Appa, Y., Stephens, T., Barkovic, S. and Finkey, M.B. A clinical evaluation of a copper-peptide-containing liquid foundation and cream concealer designed for improving skin condition. In: American Academy of Dermatology 60th Annual Meeting (Gaspan, A.A., Goldberg, L.H., gupta, A.K. et al., ed.), p. 28. American Academy of Dermatology, New Orleans, LA, USA (2002)
4
Abdulghani, A.A., Sherr, A., Shirin, S., Solodkina, G., Morales Tapia, E., Wolf, B. et al. Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin. Dis. Manag. Clin. Outcomes 1, 136–141 (1998).
5
Finkey, M.B., Appa, Y. and Bhandarkar, S. Copper peptide and skin. In: Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics, 2nd edn (Elsner, P. and Maibach, H.I., eds), pp. 549–564. Marcel Dekker, New York, NY (2005).
6
Mazurowska, L. and Mojski, M. Biological activities of selected peptides: skin penetration ability of copper complexes with peptides. J. Cosmet. Sci. 59, 59–69 (2008).
7
Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345.