Ceramide EOS

A skin-identical lipid that is an essential part of the skin barrier. Aging or exposed-to-cold skin lacks it and applying a ceramide-rich cream can replenish the lipid barrier. It may replenish linoleic acid levels in acne-prone skin.
Functions
Origin
Ceramide EOS

Overview

Ceramides are natural wax-like lipids that play an important role in the skin’s barrier function.

The top layer of the skin consists of almost dead skin cells held together by protein bridges. All the spaces in between are filled with an oily mixture consisting of 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 10-20% fatty acids. This makes the skin waterproof and prevents transdermal water loss.

Ceramide EOS is a closely related cousin of the more famous Ceramide EOP (formerly known as Ceramide 1). They are very similar in structure, differing only in one unsaturated double bond. The most important part of their structure is the oil-soluble tail of linoleic acid.

Due to the mess that used to be the ceramide naming conventions, these two sometimes got mixed up in the research, which makes it quite difficult to characterize any differences between them.

But essentially, everything that is written about Ceramide EOP in a lovely long article here also applies to Ceramide EOS, with few extra tidbits below.

Ceramide EOS makes up for around 3,5% of the skin’s ceramides. It is the one most sensitive to temperature changes – as soon as the winter season comes, the levels of Ceramide EOS in the skin decrease.

A similar thing can be observed in aging skin, and it appears to also play a role in conditions such as dandruff and chapped lips.

It is thought to be the best ceramide for acne-prone skin, as the increased sebum production in oily skin depletes the reserves of the essential linoleic acid, which can then be remedied by creams containing Ceramide EOS (since it contains a linoleic acid tail).

Science

1
Schmitt, T., & Neubert, R. H. H. (2018). State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research: The Biophysical Properties of Ceramides. Chemistry and Physics of Lipids.
2
Moore, D. J., & Rawlings, A. V. (2017). The chemistry, function and (patho)physiology of stratum corneum barrier ceramides. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(4), 366–372.
3
Van Smeden, J., Janssens, M., Gooris, G. S., & Bouwstra, J. A. (2014). The important role of stratum corneum lipids for the cutaneous barrier function. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Molecular and Cell Biology of Lipids, 1841(3), 295–313.
4
Fujiwara, A., et al. (2018). Age-related and seasonal changes in covalently bound ceramide content in forearm stratum corneum of Japanese subjects: determination of molecular species of ceramides. Archives of Dermatological Research.
5
Tessema, E. N., Gebre-Mariam, T., Neubert, R. H. H., & Wohlrab, J. (2017). Potential Applications of Phyto-Derived Ceramides in Improving Epidermal Barrier Function. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(3), 115–138.
6
Blaess, M., & Deigner, H.-P. (2019). Derailed Ceramide Metabolism in Atopic Dermatitis (AD): A Causal Starting Point for a Personalized (Basic) Therapy. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 20(16), 3967.