Ceramide AP

Ceramides are famous wax-like skin lipids that play an immensely important role in maintaining the barrier function of the skin.

In the stratum corneum (the topmost layer of the skin) there is a mesh-like network of almost-dead skin cells called corneocytes that are filled with an oily mixture called the lipid matrix. It is made up of around 50% of various ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 10-20% fatty acids (mainly polyunsaturated like linoleic acid). When all components are in balance, the skin maintains a healthy surface that prevents water loss and repels foreign substances.

Ceramide AP is the same as Ceramide 6 II (if you’re confused as to how there can be different names for the same ceramide, read here). It makes up about 8–16% of matrix ceramides.

Research has shown that the skin has significantly less Ceramide AP in all cases that manifest as dry, flaky skin: winter- and dish soap-induced dry patches on the hands, xerosis, ichthyosis, and psoriasis. These skin problems are associated with a serious imbalance in the lipid matrix and, usually, the problem is due to a lack of ceramides and too much cholesterol and fatty acids.

Supplementing ceramides in the form of creams and lotions will therefore alleviate the symptoms and can restore the correct barrier function of the skin.

But what if you don't have any of these skin issues? What are ceramides even good for if you don't have dry and flaky skin?

Well, research has also shown that there are different levels of ceramides in summer and winter (a decrease in ceramides in the skin in the winter season makes sense, considering how easily your hands get dry in the cold weather) and in different body parts (your hands, face, and lips have fewer ceramides than anywhere else) and that you tend to lose them with age.

It is definitely a good idea to include ceramides in your daily skincare routine for your hands and face, as well as a part of any skincare routine for aging skin.

Research shows that applying ceramides in the form of cream actually works, especially when combined with other building blocks of the lipid matrix (such as cholesterol and polyunsaturated fatty acids).