What is Asiaticoside? Uses In Skin Care and Cosmetics

Overview

Asiaticoside is a bioactive antioxidant compound isolated from Gotu Kola, or Centella asiatica, a recently rediscovered medicinal herb from Southeast Asia.

The studies that have been done so far (small-scale clinical studies in test tubes, on laboratory animals, and even on humans) suggest that it is a prospective new active compound for the treatment of wounds, burns, and scars.

It was able to increase the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in test tubes, as well as modulate the healing process in a way that does not create overgrown scar tissue (called keloid scars). It definitely requires more testing, but Gotu Kola extracts are becoming increasingly popular as alleged anti-wrinkle ingredients.

Asiaticoside is a triterpene, meaning that it has a specific structure with five hexagonal cycles in its molecule. The difference between asiaticoside and asiatic acid (which is sometimes used in skincare products as well) is that asiaticoside has three extra sugar molecules attached to it, making it more soluble in water.

Ratings

Reported efficacy

Wrinkle reduction

-8%

vs. benchmark (Tretinoin 0.05%)

-15%

Strength of evidence

Study 1

Study 2

Anti-wrinkle power

Creamscan anti-wrinkle rating is a weighted result of 2 parts:

Reported Efficacy: This measures the ingredient's ability to reduce wrinkles, confirmed by a double-blind, vehicle-controlled, randomized study. We compare the results reported in the study against a gold standard anti-wrinkle benchmark, 0.05% Tretinoin, to calculate a 0-10 efficacy score for the reviewed ingredient.

Strength of Evidence: This reflects how thoroughly an ingredient has been researched. While there are many studies on cosmetic ingredients, very few are robust, vehicle-controlled clinical trials on humans.

Each study meeting CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards earns the ingredient 5 points. An ingredient with just one qualifying study receives a score of 5 out of 10 for Strength of Evidence. To achieve a perfect score of 10 out of 10, an ingredient must have at least two studies confirming its efficacy from different research teams.

Science

Lee et al. Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Jun;30(3):167-73. PMID: 18452433

Bylka, W., et al. (2014). Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview. Phytotherapy Research, 28(8), 1117–1124.