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Asiaticoside

A Gotu Kola or Centella Asiatica derivative with confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Anti-wrinkle
3
Anti-wrinkle icon
/ 10
Anti-Wrinkle
Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
3
Anti-wrinkle icon
/ 10
Anti-Wrinkle
Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Antioxidant
Antioxidant icon
Antioxidant
Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging.
Antioxidant icon
Antioxidant
Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging.
Other functions
Fragrance
Fragrance
Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients.
Fragrance
Fragrance
Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients.
Origin
Botanical
Botanical
Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials.
Botanical
Botanical
Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials.
Asiaticoside
Overview Ratings Science Products

Overview

Asiaticoside is a bioactive antioxidant compound isolated from Gotu Kola, or Centella asiatica, a recently rediscovered medicinal herb from Southeast Asia.

The studies that have been done so far (small-scale clinical studies in test tubes, on laboratory animals, and even on humans) suggest that it is a prospective new active compound for the treatment of wounds, burns, and scars.

It was able to increase the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in test tubes, as well as modulate the healing process in a way that does not create overgrown scar tissue (called keloid scars). It definitely requires more testing, but Gotu Kola extracts are becoming increasingly popular as alleged anti-wrinkle ingredients.

Asiaticoside is a triterpene, meaning that it has a specific structure with five hexagonal cycles in its molecule. The difference between asiaticoside and asiatic acid (which is sometimes used in skincare products as well) is that asiaticoside has three extra sugar molecules attached to it, making it more soluble in water.

Ratings

Reported efficacy
6
Wrinkle reduction
A cream containing 0.1% Asiaticoside demonstrated a 8% decrease in average skin roughness (Ra, referred to in the study as Rz) compared to the vehicle after 12 weeks of use. Measured instrumentally (optical profilometry using skin surface replicas) on crow's feet area wrinkles. Study involving 27 subjects, study 1.
A cream containing 0.1% Asiaticoside demonstrated a 8% decrease in average skin roughness (Ra, referred to in the study as Rz) compared to the vehicle after 12 weeks of use. Measured instrumentally (optical profilometry using skin surface replicas) on crow's feet area wrinkles. Study involving 27 subjects, study 1.
-8%
vs. benchmark (Tretinoin 0.05%)

A cream containing 0.05% Tretinoin (Retinoic acid) showed a 15% decrease in average skin roughness (Ra) and a 15% decrease in average maximum wrinkle depth (Rz) compared to the vehicle after 24 weeks of use. Measured instrumentally (optical profilometry using skin surface replicas) on cheek wrinkles. Study involving 299 subjects.

Grove et al. Skin replica analysis of photodamaged skin after therapy with tretinoin emollient cream. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1991 Aug;25(2 Pt 1):231-7. PMID: 1918458

A cream containing 0.05% Tretinoin (Retinoic acid) showed a 15% decrease in average skin roughness (Ra) and a 15% decrease in average maximum wrinkle depth (Rz) compared to the vehicle after 24 weeks of use. Measured instrumentally (optical profilometry using skin surface replicas) on cheek wrinkles. Study involving 299 subjects.

Grove et al. Skin replica analysis of photodamaged skin after therapy with tretinoin emollient cream. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1991 Aug;25(2 Pt 1):231-7. PMID: 1918458

-15%
Strength of evidence
5
Study 1
Lee et al. Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Jun;30(3):167-73. PMID: 18452433
Lee et al. Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Jun;30(3):167-73. PMID: 18452433
5
Study 2

We could find only one study for this ingredient that meets Creamscan research validation guidelines.

We could find only one study for this ingredient that meets Creamscan research validation guidelines.

-
Anti-wrinkle power
3
Creamscan anti-wrinkle rating is a weighted result of 2 parts:
1
Reported Efficacy: This measures the ingredient's ability to reduce wrinkles, confirmed by a double-blind, vehicle-controlled, randomized study. We compare the results reported in the study against a gold standard anti-wrinkle benchmark, 0.05% Tretinoin, to calculate a 0-10 efficacy score for the reviewed ingredient.
2
Strength of Evidence: This reflects how thoroughly an ingredient has been researched. While there are many studies on cosmetic ingredients, very few are robust, vehicle-controlled clinical trials on humans.
Each study meeting CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards earns the ingredient 5 points. An ingredient with just one qualifying study receives a score of 5 out of 10 for Strength of Evidence. To achieve a perfect score of 10 out of 10, an ingredient must have at least two studies confirming its efficacy from different research teams.

Science

1
Lee et al. Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Jun;30(3):167-73. PMID: 18452433
2
Bylka, W., et al. (2014). Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview. Phytotherapy Research, 28(8), 1117–1124.

Products with Asiaticoside

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Anti-wrinkle icon
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Moisturizing icon
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Antioxidants icon
3.0
Anti-wrinkle icon
4.2
Moisturizing icon
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TONYMOLY
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