What is Acetyl Hexapeptide-8? Uses In Skin Care and Cosmetics

Overview

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a short, synthetically made peptide consisting of six amino acids with an acetyl group on one end. It is marketed under the registered trade name Argireline®.

It claims to act similarly to Botox – interacting with small facial muscles, inhibiting neurotransmitters, calming muscle contractions, and reducing the appearance of expression wrinkles. It is very safe to use compared to Botox, with minimal side effects and risk of skin irritation.

It has been shown to be effective in some studies, although not nearly as effective as Botox. One trial in which ten women received twice-daily applications of 5 % Argireline cream demonstrated a 27 % improvement in the women’s around-the-eye lines after 30 days.

In another study of American women with healthy skin, 10% Argireline solution reduced the depth of their wrinkles up to 17 % after 15 days, and up to 30 % after 30 days.

In the last clinical study, Chinese women observed 49% anti-wrinkle efficacy from a 10% solution. Moreover, in combination with a silicone gel base, it was tested as a potential treatment for scars.

The issue with Argireline is that you cannot just apply it to the skin and hope for the best. Peptides and proteins are notoriously difficult to transport through the skin’s surface. They are soluble in water and the topmost layer of our skin, the Stratum corneum, is almost completely water-resistant.

Studies have shown that in a regular gel or emulsion, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 barely absorbs below the Stratum corneum, with only 0,22% penetrating to the deeper layers of the skin. This can be fixed in two ways: either by the careful formulation of more complex emulsions that have a better delivery rate, or by modifying the hexapeptide to make it more oil-soluble.

Although the benefits seem groundbreaking, it is important to note there is no evidence to suggest that Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has any lasting effects on facial wrinkles and skin structure. The wrinkles may come back after its effect on the facial muscles fade.

Argireline is therefore mostly seen as a quick fix and not a lasting solution.

Science

Lupo MP , Cole AL . Cosmeceutical peptides . Dermatol Ther. 2007 ; 20 ; 343 – 349

Blanes-Mira C. et al . A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002 ; 24 : 303 – 310 .

Wang, Y., Wang, M., Xiao, S., Pan, P., Li, P., & Huo, J. (2013). The Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy of Argireline, a Synthetic Hexapeptide, in Chinese Subjects. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 14(2), 147–153.

Palmieri, B., Noviello, A., Corazzari, V., Garelli, A., & Vadala, M. (2020). Skin scars and wrinkles temporary camouflage in dermatology and oncoesthetics: focus on acetyl hexapeptide-8. La Clinica terapeutica, 171(6), e539–e548.

Kraeling, M. E. K., Zhou, W., Wang, P., & Ogunsola, O. A. (2014). In vitro skin penetration of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from a cosmetic formulation. Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology, 34(1), 46–52.

Hoppel, M., Reznicek, G., Kählig, H., Kotisch, H., Resch, G. P., & Valenta, C. (2015). Topical delivery of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from different emulsions: Influence of emulsion composition and internal structure. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 68, 27–35.

Lim, S. H., Sun, Y., Thiruvallur Madanagopal, T., Rosa, V., & Kang, L. (2018). Enhanced Skin Permeation of Anti-wrinkle Peptides via Molecular Modification. Scientific Reports, 8(1).